Meet Anne Malassagne
Anne has been keeping her family’s Champagne house alive as it enters its second century. She speaks to us about how she stepped in to take over the business at 28, after never thinking that she would, and how she’s revolutionizing an industry that has always been dominated by men.
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on her morning routine
I wake up using a lamp that recreates the light of dawn. It is a gentle awakening to the rhythm of the dawning day. Then I have a large bowl of chicory with bread (from Poilâne) and honey. My honey-loving son converted me and I have become addicted.
on her upbringing and how she took over her family’s champagne house
I grew up in Reims where I graduated from high school. I looked up to my father who ran the estate and I have always participated in the harvest, by helping with picking, preparing meals for the grape pickers, and even helping with the pressing stage. I never once thought I would take over the estate as the world of wine was male-dominated. And so I chose to follow my own path in Paris. I loved reading so spent a year indulging myself in a post-baccalaureate program in literature and humanities and then went to Paris-Dauphine to obtain a Master’s in International Management Sciences. When I finished, I joined the internal audit department at L’Oréal. I learned everything there: rigor, methods, teamwork. It was a very enriching experience on a professional and human level.
I took over the estate in 1993 when my father wanted to sell the estate as it was in serious financial trouble. It was during the middle of the Gulf War and the crisis had hit Champagne very hard. My older brother was a doctor and my younger brother was too young and still a student. So I was the only one in a position to come and support my father. The prospect of working as a team with him and keeping the estate in the family motivated my decision. I thought that my father would continue to take care of the wines and vines while I developed sales. But very quickly he fell seriously ill and had to leave the business, leaving me alone to run the house. I was 28 years old, had no training, and little experience in wine.
““Being young, inexperienced in wine, and coming from a cosmetics company in Paris did not help me break in easy. Many waited for me to be discouraged to rebuy the estate and some thought that a woman had no place in this domain. I had to develop the business all whilst learning my profession and gaining credibility in this very closed, masculine environment. I had to show a lot of humility and work hard. I had a very clear vision of the Champagne that I wanted to taste one day. And those strong convictions helped me go on without giving up, that along with protecting the family estate. Every generation has had to face difficult times, phylloxera, wars, frosts, crises. Yet the estate is still there, in the family.””
on balancing her work and family life during the pandemic
From dealing with the refrigerator, children's activities, to work projects, all these challenges make me more efficient and productive at my 3 roles: business manager, mother, and wife.
My teenagers follow the new health rules very strictly and we have been living in isolation for a year without seeing our friends. This allowed us to exchange a lot, share a lot and refocus on the essential. We’re all living very well considering that health is well worth a few small sacrifices.
on founding la transmission, a group of women leading champagne into a new era
Transmission carries values of sharing, courage, and know-how, passing on to the youngest our experiences and communicating our commitment to them. I discussed this concept with Maggie Henriquez (CEO at Krug) and we immediately imagined a group of women, but, above all, a representative group of Champagne. The 9 women who make up La Transmission are all leaders of their fields; representing all the regions from Champagne de l'Aube to the mountains of Reims. They also come from very different structures ranging from the smallest producer to the big international brand. All generations come together to share diverse experiences. Our mission is to show a more modern, more accessible, more human image of Champagne. We also want to share our stories, our difficulties, and our joys to encourage other women to join the world of wine and Champagne.
on her advice to young women and staying in the know on wine and champagne
You shouldn't stop at prejudices. Believe in yourself, in your abilities, and your motivation. Women have a place in the wine industry as in all other areas dominated by men. They bring their qualities, their skills, their differences too. It is in camaraderie and finding complementary people that teams develop and succeed even better.
I follow a few relevant contacts on networks like LinkedIn and I follow blogs specializing in wine and Champagne in particular, like La Champagne de Sophie Clayes and Tellement Soif by Antoine Gerbelle and Ophélie Neumann. Their tone is direct, casual, warm, informative, and sometimes fun.
Top, Isabel Marant
““Taking over a wine estate is not a job, it is a life that you embrace. We devote all our time and energy to it. This role requires skills in everything. You must be a financial director, marketing manager, excellent salesperson, rigorous manager, and visionary. Each week is different and offers us great encounters and experiences. These meetings around Champagne are always nice surprises and the opportunity to better understand other cultures, other gastronomies, other ways of living. Champagne is universal and magical as it transforms very simple moments in life into happy moments.””
on staying active as she ages
Aging is of course inevitable, but it’s not necessarily related to getting older. Some may seem old at 30 while others seem young at 70. It’s all a state of mind. Being young is about keeping up with your mind and body, to be full of energy, love, and happiness. It’s also about loving to take care of yourself, not just for you but your loved ones. As I advance in age, my exercise strengthens and my makeup lightens as my hydration increases.
Sport has always been a source of balance. As a teenager, I swam a lot and I practiced classical dance. Swimming brings me calmness and physical strength. As for dancing, I have evolved into doing floor barre, a very demanding classical dance practice, all done on the floor. 35 years of practice has allowed me to tone and loosen up deeply. These 2 activities have been absolutely essential to help me release stress. It has also helped me to concentrate better and conserve all my energy.
on her beauty routine
The main thing for me is to have healthy and subtle skin. I don’t stock on jewelry or loads of beauty products, I stick to the essential. I use Uriage’s body oil to help avoid dry skin, Clinique’s cleansing blam, and Bioderma’s water micellar to gently remove makeup. I apply Estée Lauder’s repair serum and day cream to hydrate without overloading my skin. I also use Nivea’s cream. I set myself a regular sleep rhythm and a minimum of 8 hours a night to wake up with brighter skin.
Perfume, however, is a more complicated matter. I like scents with character that are neither sweet nor woody. Funny enough, the perfumes that I like are always removed from the market after I have chosen them! I’ve had to build a stock of 5 to 6 years of perfume. Currently, I am still using the Boisé Torride gasoline from Guerlain, which I have in stock for a few more years.
on her favorite books
I read books with a wide variety of topics but always on subjects that teach me something. I read a lot about personal development and the history of humanity. I really like biographies too. One book that particularly struck me that I often revisit is The Power of Now by Eckhart Tolle. It helps me to settle down, to find calm and serenity in times of great pressure. I was also very inspired by reading Start with Why by Simon Sinek. A more professional book, but the subject of which can be extended to one’s personal life to give it even more meaning. Finally, after reading Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harari 2 years ago, I dove back into it, devouring the comic book version that has just been released. A book to read and reread as it is rich in lessons about our humanity.
on her style
I am not at all influenced by brands unless they provide me with the comfort of materials to which I am very sensitive. I like the touch, the fit of a garment and spontaneously feeling comfortable in it. So I have a lot of dresses and tailored pants from Theory whose jackets are wrinkle-resistant and allow me to travel with ease. I also have a weakness for the sweaters that I wear all year round and especially the cashmere from Bompard.
anne’s favorite places in paris
I love Juvéniles, the cuisine is inventive and divine, and, the selection of wines is superb. Nearby, in a superb setting, is Verjus, where the dining room and the plate are worth a detour. For an exotic evening I go to 39 V, avenue George V. A restaurant on the rooftops of Paris, intimate and unique. I also like the Miel Factory store on rue de Sévigné where I regularly go to taste dozens of honey, each more delicious than the next, or C O W bd St Germain which offers an exceptional selection of cheeses. The pairings with Champagne are endless! For museums, I love the Grand Palais, the Picasso Museum, Musée d’Orsay, and the Carnavalet Museum.
images by clémence polès